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By Chandler Burr for The New York Times - March 16, 2008
Yuzu Rouge | 06130 ****
www.06130.com
All arts influence each other: Architectural forms show up in painting, the aesthetics of current paintings are reflected in current music, music shapes film, film images are read in contemporary books.
Perfumes have structures just as buildings do, and perfumers go to movies, read, visit museums, and, like all artists, generally look at what other artists are doing. It's not surprising therefore that many perfumers, like many architects, have imbibed modernism's early 20th century precepts: eliminate ornament, simplify line, derive form from modern, high-tech raw materials.
Yuzu Rouge, from niche house 06130 (its name is the postal code for Grasse), is one of the best modernist perfumes around. Perfumer Raphaël Haury, under the creative direction of 06130's Nicolas Chabert, has created the olfactory equivalent of Lever House, the 1952 seminal "glass box" International Style skyscraper at 390 Park Avenue in New York City. Twenty-four stories of blue-green heat-resistant glass and stainless steel curtain-wall that hide the building's structure beneath a floating polished skin, this is the work of the iconic firm Skidmore, Owings and Merrill at its best, a mandatory stop on any visit to New York (a bonus for the visitor: it sits directly opposite Mies van der Rohe's Seagram Building), its style helping to define 20th century architecture.
Haury has, as we all have, absorbed this aesthetic icon and created a perfume equally sleek, seemingly glass-covered and deceptively simple.
"Yuzu Rouge"'s scent gives one the sensation of a plunge into a slightly chilled swimming pool. Its raw materials-cassis, verveine, grapefruit-structure themselves with crystalline clarity, free of any perceptible supporting skeleton, and you find a smell at once recognizable (these crisp, citric references to nature) and beautifully, mesmerizingly abstract and modernist, like the smell of the air in a pristine new airport terminal. The perfume seems to float, more light than scent. Like most of its kind, it is somewhat fleeting, diffusing madly for 15 minutes, then becoming a mesmerizing murmur of fresh lemongrass and tea. A simple reapplication recharges the angular glow.